Marseille

Venant de Grenoble et Lyon, villes-sœurs, quelques heures de route m’ont suffi pour débarquer dans un autre monde.

Je découvris, dans l’ordre, les Calanques et les épisodes méditerranéens, les olives cassées, les sardines à l’escabèche, les figues sèches (les vraies), et d’autres choses qui font à Marseille un quotidien bien différent d’ailleurs.

Les Calanques et les épisodes méditerranéens

Je savais qu’aux portes de la ville est un espace sauvage d’une grande beauté. Aussi, ce 6 octobre (la date est importante), dès que je pus quitter mon bureau, je pris la 404 familiale que j’avais fait remettre en état di proposito, et partis à la découverte de cette merveille. Je passais devant la prison des Beaumettes puis laissais la voiture pour suivre un sentier jusqu’en haut d’une colline. Alors, sous mes yeux ébahis apparurent quelques maisons blanches aux toits rouges comme des jouets tout au fond d’une vallée encaissée, envahie par la mer. Une merveille, vraiment ! C’était au-delà de tout ce que j’imaginais. J’avais sous les yeux les Calanques, quelle beauté, quelle merveille !

Ma contemplation fut de courte durée. Le ciel sombre et menaçant lâchait de grosses gouttes, suivies bientôt d’une forte averse. Revenu bien vite devant les Baumettes, je me réfugiais dans un café, le bien nommé « Ici mieux qu’en face ». Juste à temps ; le ciel et la terre se liquéfièrent d’un coup. Un déluge, un vrai, comme dans la bible. Il dura moins longtemps, fort heureusement. Quand  je sortis, après quelque temps, le soleil était de nouveau là, mais dans un pays bouleversé. Je m’engageais dans des rues devenues torrents. Un moment, une vague recouvrit l’avant de ma voiture. Fort heureusement, le moteur diesel, sans bobine d’allumage ne risquait pas d’être noyé.

Je sus le lendemain qu’un pécheur avait était foudroyé sur son bateau, à Bandol, et sur le Boulevard Michelet un passant avait disparu dans une bouche d’égout. Je l’appris : la ville est pratiquement au niveau de la mer si bien qu’en cas de fortes pluies les égouts refoulent et les bouches d’égout s’ouvrent. Ce n’était que le prélude à ce que je connus plus tard, de plus près et de façon plus dramatique. J’étais vraiment dans un autre monde, Grenoble n’était plus qu’un souvenir !

Ce qu’il est convenu d’appeler épisodes méditerranéens mérite qu’on s’y attarde, car c’est un phénomène météorologique très particulier. Il est très violent, ce qui pourrait l’apparenter aux tempêtes, tornades, ouragans, ou autres, mais ce n’est qu’une apparence. Ici, nul vent violent, pas d’éclairs ni tonnerre, rien de tout ce tumulte. Aucun signe précurseur ; inutile de tapoter le baromètre, il ne bougera pas. C’est en cela que l’épisode méditerranéen se distingue de toutes les perturbations météorologiques, il ne s’accompagne pas de dépression. Aucune chute de la pression atmosphérique. C’est un phénomène purement local, d’ordre thermique, un dialogue conflictuel entre la mer et la terre, plus exactement entre la mer et les collines. En septembre-octobre la mer, qui a encore gardé la chaleur de l’été, envoie de grandes quantités de vapeur l’eau sur les collines qui, elles, se sont refroidies. Cette vapeur d’eau se condense, brutalement. Résultat, le ciel se liquéfie, littéralement. Ce ne sont pas de fortes averses, de grosses gouttes, toutes choses qui nous sont familières, c’est l’eau du ciel qui, d’un coup, nous tombe sur la tête. Nous sommes sur terre et, brusquement, plongés dans l’eau. De l’eau au-dessus, au-dessous, par côté, de tous côtés, un univers d’eau envahissante, furieuse, des torrents qui un instant auparavant étaient des rues. Essayez d’y échapper, d’en réchapper si vous pouvez.

Les olives cassées

Passant près d’un olivier, je ne résistais pas au plaisir de cueillir un de ces petits fruits lisses et avenants. Ce fut mon baptême d’étranger (prononcer estrandgé, avé l’assent) c’est-à-dire venant du Nord, au-delà de Valence, ignorant les réalités de cette Provence d’Epinal que j’avais en tête. Comment, contre toute attente, cette petite chose, que l’on sait pourtant parfaitement comestible, peut-elle révéler au premier coup de dent pareille amertume et déclencher pareil cataclysme en bouche ?

Plus tard un ami me présenta des olives cassées. Je pensais aussitôt à Fernand Reynaud et son « cassez-m’en une douzaine ». Je découvris alors le monde de l’adoucissement des olives, qui tient une large part dans les préoccupations des provençaux. Mais oui, c’est bien sûr : je repensais à cette olive prise sur l’arbre, non adoucie, donc. Des olives, je ne connaissais que celles dites « à la grecque »; elles sont aux olives cassées ce que le Caprice des Dieux est au Brillat-Savarin. Viendront ensuite les olives de Nyons, gros noyau, fine peau et peu de chair, mais quel parfum. A condition toutefois d’être préparées comme il convient, c’est-à-dire ayant conservé un peu de leur amertume. J’en suis devenu addict.

Les sardines à l’escabèche

Un jour je fus confronté à un plat de sardines d’apparence peu engageante, rebutante même, et je ne comprenais pas que tous autour de moi les attrapaient à pleines mains et s’en régalais joyeusement. Je dus les imiter, avec réticence, et ce fut une découverte, une de plus.

La sardine à l’escabèche est un plat traditionnel provençal, qui est une forme de conservation de la sardine, confite dans l’huile et le vinaigre. Seule l’ancienne génération le connait et plus personne ne sait le faire. On en trouve de bien pâles imitations, faites d’après les recettes, mais il manque, comme toujours en cuisine, la patte du chef.

Je vais vous révéler sa préparation, bien qu’entre le dire et le faire il y a un monde, surtout en cuisine. Les sardines doivent être saisies à feu vif, très vif sur une gazinière (impératif) dans l’huile (d’olive, cela va sans dire) avec tous les ingrédients : ail, oignons thym, tranches de citrons… (liste non exhaustive). Quand l’huile est chaude au point d’être prête à s’enflammer, l’enflammer précisément en jetant un verre de vinaigre (de vin, bien sûr). C’est alors qu’une grande flamme jaillit à près d’un mètre d’hauteur. Voilà, c’est tout (!).  Verser l’ensemble dans un récipient de grès pour laisser les sardines s’imprégner de tous ces parfums. On peut en déguster un peu tout de suite (comment faire autrement ?) mais après quelques semaines c’est encore mieux. Donc, mettre le tout au fond d’un placard et l’oublier pour le plaisir de le redécouvrir plus tard.

Inutile de dire que la cuisine où les sardines sont préparées doit pouvoir supporter cette épreuve du feu, c’est le cas de le dire, car il n’y a de sardines à l’escabèche qu’à ce prix.

Les figues sèches

Quoi de plus banal que des figues sèches. Je le pensais aussi, jusqu’au jour un ami, encore un, me présenta les figues sèches de sa maman. Une découverte, une de plus.

Il faut dire que la maman était de Solliès-Pont, le pays de la figue, plus exactement le pays de la figue de Solliès-Pont. Pour un Marseillais il n’y a de figue que de Solliès-Pont. Belles, charnues, tellement gonflées de bonheur qu’elles en éclatent et le répandent en bouche.

Mais revenons à la maman. Comment obtenait-elle d’une figue de pareilles saveurs, je ne voulais pas le savoir, seulement déguster. Chaque année à l’automne  j’attendais que mon ami revienne de Solliès-Pont avec, donc, les figues de la maman.

Connaissez-vous la fin de l’histoire, qui est aussi la fin des figues de la maman de Solliès-Pont. De façon surprenante, cette brave dame ne possédait aucun figuier. Elle cueillait ses figues sur le grand arbre du voisin dont les branches pendaient au-dessus du mur mitoyen. Un jour le mur s’écroula. Il entraina sans doute le figuier dans sa chute, car de ce jour il n’y eut plus de figues de la maman de Solliès-Pont.

Le pont dont il est question enjambe le Gapeau, un ruisselet qui gazouille agréablement depuis la Sainte Beaume, mais peut se transformer en torrent dévastateur lors des fameux épisodes méditerranéens. Au-dessus de Solliès-Pont est le vieux village accroché à flanc de colline, Solliès-Ville.

Les petites traditions

Je m’émerveille que, malgré la rapidité et la facilité des transports, des traditions locales perdurent et font que le quotidien n’est plus le même après seulement quelques heures de déplacement.

Ainsi, au marché de Grenoble on achète les produits en livres ou demi-livres. A Marseille, dites demi ou quart (de kilo). Essayez de demander ici une livre d’olives ! Ce sont ces petits riens qui s’accumulent et font qu’à Marseille la vie n’est pas comme ailleurs.

La liste de ces petits riens serait longue. J’aurais l’occasion d’y revenir.

Marseille ne fait rien comme les autres

Parfois, en pleine ville résonne la corne de brume des bateaux, comme si la cité phocéenne naviguait en mer, à l’image de l’Île de la Cité de Leo Ferré.

Sur une côte méditerranéenne orientée globalement Est-Ouest, la façade maritime de Marseille s’oriente, elle, du Nord au Sud.  En fait la ville est isolée de la pleine mer par les hautes collines de Marseilleveyre, qui sont entaillées des magnifiques Calanques. Il est ainsi possible et, après quelques minutes se retrouver en montagne puis, en avançant encore un peu se trouver face à la mer, au sommet de falaises qui s’apparentent à celles du massif du Vercors. Ce sont les mêmes roches, donc les mêmes reliefs, les mêmes falaises, les mêmes crêtes, un peu moins hauts toutefois car plus proches de la dépression méditerranéenne. ainsi je retrouvais mon pays, le soleil et le ciel bleu en plus.

 

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